Manitaria Kokkinista
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a dish from greece —

ep.37Taste the Story

Manitaria Kokkinista

Greece 55 min total Serves 4 Easy
the history —

How this dish came to life

On 28 October 1940, Greece rejected Mussolini's ultimatum and entered the war. In the occupation that followed, finding enough food became a daily struggle, and communities turned to the land for whatever it could offer. Around Grevena, in northern Greece, gathering wild mushrooms was knowledge passed down through generations. During those difficult years, that familiar tradition became a way to help feed the villages. People gathered mushrooms from the nearby forests and brought them home to be cooked and shared. The story tells of large pots set up in village squares, where families came together around a meal made from what they had found. Behind this simple mushroom dish is a memory of resourcefulness and solidarity — of people using their knowledge of the land to care for one another when food was scarce.

Cultural significance

A humble meal, carrying a story worth remembering.

now let's cook

step by step

Instructions

  1. 1

    Heat half the olive oil in a wide pan over medium-high heat. Brown the mushrooms in batches, without overcrowding the pan. Remove and set aside.

  2. 2

    Add the remaining olive oil and the onion. Cook over medium heat for 6–8 minutes until softened.

  3. 3

    Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for another minute.

  4. 4

    Pour in the red wine, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Let it reduce for 2–3 minutes.

  5. 5

    Add the grated tomatoes, bay leaf, cinnamon, and oregano. Return the mushrooms and their juices to the pan. Season with salt and black pepper.

  6. 6

    Simmer gently, partially covered, for 20–25 minutes. Add water gradually as needed to reach your preferred consistency. Uncover towards the end if the sauce needs to thicken.

  7. 7

    Remove the bay leaf and cinnamon. Stir in the parsley and adjust the seasoning.

tips from the village —

Wisdom from grandmothers

  • 01Brown the mushrooms in batches — a crowded pan steams them instead of searing them.
  • 02The cinnamon stick is the old kokkinisto secret: warmth in the sauce, not sweetness.
  • 03Mixed wild mushrooms make it taste like Grevena; even plain button mushrooms turn deeply savoury here.
  • 04Serve it with crusty bread, or over pasta, rice or mashed potatoes — the sauce is the treasure.
keep cooking —

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καλή όρεξη —

Cook it slowly. Share it with someone you love.